Sneaker Society: El Poxte talks about the event and the tennis culture – Trends – Life

The most recent release of this kind is two vegan pairs from Billie Eilish on September 27 with Nike. Gone are the days when only athletes were the referents. These collaborations are a response to the explosion of the movement called street culture, which brings together music, fashion, sports and art. It seems recent due to the popularity of hiphop aesthetics reinforced with that of reggaeton and everything that makes up the Latino Gang, but the truth is that it is not new. In the United States, tennis fever has been a phenomenon since the 1980s due to the splendor of that inseparable duo that is hip-hop and basketball, and which was strongly reflected in the streets of New York. That move was the foundation for a generation of more design-focused collectors with YouTube channels and Instagram accounts where pairs are displayed and counted by the hundreds. Of course, in a globalized world, the phenomenon had to be replicated in Latin America, but with its own identity. (You may be interested: Balenciaga launches 'a bag' to make purchases for seven million pesos) One of those channels is Laced Up, which has 228,000 followers on YouTube and has created a faithful network community for all those who love the stories behind a pair of sneakers and speak Spanish. Mexicans Luis Chávez and Gustavo Rosas –known in the world of sneakers as El Poxte and Tavo– created the channel 5 years ago and have made a difference by taking advantage of the digital universe to show an anthropological sense behind a pair of tennis shoes. EL TIEMPO spoke with El Poxte –who will host the Sneakers Society– about this cultural movement. In the midst of the explosion of this movement how to explain that it is not just about consumerism? The love for a pair of sneakers is not defined as the fascination for buying rubber, leather and textiles. You have to take into account who is going to use it, the one who provides the other part of the story. Tennis collecting really started in the '70s, when Nike started creating rare pieces. So until the 90s. At that time, people understood that they were true jewels and that if they did not keep them, they would never be able to have them again. A pair of sneakers is not really designed to last more than 8 years, but then people began to save these sneakers and treat them as pieces with history until today. When do sneakers become a status symbol and we stop seeing those who wear them daily as casual? It was always a status symbol for people in the tennis circle. In the 90s, rappers were the influencers of style and everyone wanted to have the shoes that they had, but always within that sphere. The boom of this is with Instagram, because it made us homogeneous and completely changed the game. You used to go to Europe and see things that you didn't see in Mexico and vice versa, but now wherever you go you're going to see the same thing and if you don't have them in your country you can have them just the same. All that historical fascination that had already been built by the culture of hiphop, basketball and the American personality exploded with social networks. In your words, what is a 'sneakerhead'? He is a person who not only likes tennis for its aesthetic value, but also for its cultural value. He is interested in knowing who designed it, understanding a collaboration or how that pair came to be conceived. Someone who understands that sneakers are a means of conveying a message.

In the 90s, rappers were the style 'influencers' and everyone wanted to have the sneakers they had, but always within that sphere

Has the pandemic affected the way we dress and see sneakers as part of daily attire? Sure, the pandemic helped in two ways. One, in the generation of content, many vlogs are born in this time. The stores began to explore dynamics that were not face-to-face and it was easier to buy a pair online, from that people began to create content. On the other hand, the design changed to be more comfortable, to be at home teleworking. For example, in the Yeazzy line, they had been making very comfortable things, but the latest they have are Slides, flip-flops to be very comfortable.

What do collaborations with pop artists like Dua Lipa or Billie Eilish bring to culture? It completely changes the definition of sneaker. Before it was simply about performance, quality for performance. Nike wanted to make something that you could run faster or a longer distance with. Adidas put all its technology so that you could play better football. The influencers were the athletes. What these referents of pop culture contribute are models for a new market. A Jordan 1 by J Balvin for the new sneakerhead who prefers it for its colors. That new buyer sees the figure of the man jumping in front of him and surely does not know who Michael Jordan is. All that cultural heritage lost its characteristic of performance and then lost exclusivity, but gained space in popular culture. It's no longer about going to play with these tennis shoes that will make me feel and perform amazing, it's about wanting to take a picture of myself and have the likes rain down on me.

With so many releases, what determines that you decide to review a couple over others? There are pairs that you may or may not like, but if it has a cultural impact, we will review them. One example, you may not like the silhouette of Bad Bunny's peers, but he's pretty much the biggest pop artist out there right now. If something has relevance and has a story behind it, we're definitely going to talk about it. On the other hand, although the brands send us some releases or lend us pairs to review, we are tennis lovers and we want them to be stepped on by us. So it has to be ours and relevant.

Everything is very focused on the ecological and sustainable wave, from the reuse of materials to the creation of very innovative textiles.

So, how to be in the conversation of the latest releases and not fall into showing only what is in demand? That is very important, I look for things that are not necessarily what is fashionable, such as proposals that have to do with the environment or innovation. I always want to surprise with something of culture that is from now or from the past. At Laced Up we have talked about Afrocentrism, apartheid, the history of funk, clubs like CBGB, the importance of Japanese design through sneakers. What is the concept behind your #nohype podcast? Hype is something that is completely overcrowded. This is about talking about what no one has like when you find an author or a book that no one else has read, silhouettes that can accompany you throughout your life and that surely another generation will discover them and make them part of their lives. a completely different way. We are talking about pairs that do not have hype, that monetary value or likes, but culturally they have enormous value. What does Laced Up bring to the movement in Latin America? What we give to the Latin American market is our perspective as consumers who are part of an entire socioeconomic reality completely different from the North American one. We are buyers who cannot have everything. What it is about is moving away a little from the consumerist side and inviting you to put history into that pair of sneakers you have. As we say at Laced Up: the pairs are not yours until you step on them.

Amid the growth of culture, how to interpret counterfeits? Buying piracy is giving your money to someone who has nothing to do with the development of a new technology, or with the distribution chain or advertising in which many people participate. If today you can enjoy all the innovation that was developed for your comfort, it is for the money that you have paid before for some original sneakers. It is not just about participating from the monetary point of view, but also being part of the culture by knowing and researching about that pair of tennis shoes that you are buying.

Where is the sneaker movement and industry going? Innovation is going to become more and more specialized, sneakers that are better adapted to your way of life, your footprint, your movement. Everything is very focused on the ecological and sustainable wave, from the reuse of materials to the creation of very innovative textiles. And on the fashion side, many collaborations and more people outside the world of tennis that have a very attractive message for everyone or for a specific niche, the niches will be very important. What is your advice for someone who wants to start a tennis collection? It's very basic: buy what you like. If you do, your collection will reflect who you are. If not, it's like buying art from an artist you don't even like to put in your living room, it won't be something you proudly show off to your friends when they visit.

The collection of tennis shoes and the positioning of the athleisure trend, which combines sports pieces with sophisticated garments, have turned the industry of tennis shoes, clothing and sports line accessories into a multi-million dollar company. According to figures from Dafiti, an online fashion store Since 2018, the sale of sports shoes has grown by 84 percent. Comparing only the almost ten months of 2021 with respect to the same periods of the last 3 years, it has increased more than the total sale of that time (2018). Since the pandemic, significant growth has been observed in the sale of this category, taking into account that in 2020 sales grew by almost 25 percent compared to the previous year. Since the beginning of the pandemic, this category has had monthly growth that has positioned it as one of the strongest in sales both in Colombia and in the other countries where they are present. (Also read: The messy style goes to the head !)

Currently, consumers are looking for a comforting and protective sensation, so comfort and functionality are the protagonists when it comes to selling footwear.

Currently, consumers are looking for a comforting and protective sensation, so comfort and functionality are the protagonists when it comes to selling footwear. In recent years there has been a shift towards something less formal and more sporty. According to Rodolfo Palma, Dafiti's Fashion Advisor "trends are changing season after season and we can see the rise in concern for sustainability in materials, where technical innovations and natural materials mark the path towards a more circular future" .Post-pandemic, the boom in running shoes is on the rise, and here the color palette is varied and the technology stands out. There is also a growing rage for the retro style, where the Reebok and Adidas performance models set the standard. On the other hand, basic and timeless models continue to stand out as the main characteristic, preferences go for canvas sports shoes where Converse and Vans are the leading brands. Following the line of retro, ankle sneakers stand out this season with a renewed vintage style, rescuing the nostalgia where basketball and skate shoes gain prominence in brands such as Nike and Adidas. In line with the impacts of the pandemic, consumers prioritize styles that are durable and of good quality. It is for the same reason that the trend of the most basic and timeless models is growing in the face of consumers who moderate their spending. On the other hand, it stands out that lifestyles are increasingly active post-pandemic and it is sports designs that are currently growing.

The top brands within Dafiti's sales are currently Skechers, Adidas, Nike, Reebok, Under Armour. Customers choose them for their offer in terms of casual looks and adaptable to a work-at-home lifestyle and outdoor experiences, which is why running or trekking models are on the rise, responding to the desire for adventures in nature.

Adidas Forum low: From its most vintage presentation in the Forum 84 Low to the three color combinations of the collaboration with Bad Bunny, the Adidas Forum has been the protagonist.

Adidas Yeezy: This Kanye West line begins his journey with Nike in 2008 and ends in a perfect marriage with Adidas.

Nike Dunk Low: born in the 80s for basketball courts, it has had successive releases that sell out in minutes. Three must-see pairs: What The P-Rod, Street Hawker, and Parra Abstract Art.

Converse: 2021 is proving to be a great year for Converse thanks to collaborations, such as those made with Kim Jones, creative director of Fendi; or Golf Le Fleur, the brand of Taylor The Creator.

New Balance: Although at the beginning of the year, it seemed that the 327 would never lose the crown, little by little the market has been filled with versions such as the 990v3, from Joe Fresh Goods; the 2002R, by Salehe Bembury.

Not to lose sight of the trend for slides or flip-flops and all its variants. The most outstanding examples are those of the Adidas Yeezy line and the proposal of the New York designer Salehe Bembury, who, with a futuristic design, manages to give the classic Crocs a completely renewed look. It is a fashion that is going strong among celebrities such as Justin Bieber and Kim Kardashian and obeys the proposals of the big brands in response to the demand for footwear for those who continue to work at home and do not want to lose style. The report Global sports footwear industry (2020 to 2027): Key Market Trends and Drivers, from Research and Markets, projects the global athletic footwear market – estimated at $71.8 billion in 2020 – to reach a revised size of $100.3 billion by 2027, growing at a compound annual rate of 4.9 percent during the period 2020-2027.

Given these figures, it is easy to understand why today tennis shoes are also investment assets that, on resale platforms such as Stockx, being limited pieces or highly valued old models, reach thousands of dollars and are offered as collector's items.

The evolution of the tennis cult and urban culture have not been alien to the new generations in Colombia. On the contrary, it is currently a booming movement, capable of massively moving followers beyond social networks towards spaces for pedagogy, exchange and marketing. An example of this is the Sneaker Society, currently the largest fair in Colombia dedicated to a public that loves street culture and the world of tennis. Colombia is not a new market, considering that for this year, in its third edition, this fair that in 2020 summoned 7,800 attendees, expects between 10,000 and 15,000 visitors at the El Tesoro event center on October 23 and 24.

The main motivation is for people to understand what is behind the creation of tennis shoes, to find the stories through the design of each brand and its universe

The event, created to generate culture in the country based on the idea of ​​bringing together brands, collectors and artists, is a benchmark for lovers of sneakers in Latin America who, due to geographical distance, are not close to the event market in Mexico. , a country that has come a long way and is an authority on tennis collecting in the region. For Juan Carlos 'Chino' Ossa, co-founder of the Sneaker Society, it is not about creating events exclusively to sell, "the main motivation is that people understand what is behind the creation of tennis, that they meet the stories through the design of each brand and its universe. We seek to educate and create purchase awareness to form a community”, he explained. The trend, both in fairs and in stores, is to provide a shopping experience. That is why the dynamics to acquire a pair and invite the public to visit the stores with the intention of having a sensory experience with the materials, the colors, even the smell of a good pair of tennis shoes. It is a task that spaces such as Broken Chains in Pereira have been carrying out in the country and that are revolutionary for personalized advice in the face of increased online shopping. One of the most important lines of Sneaker Society 2021 is the academic classroom Sneaker Society Talk, in where the guests will talk about the market, new trends and technological development. For this edition there will be figures of great recognition on the subject, such as El Poxte, Tavo Rosas and Édgar Román from Mexico, Lorenz Wiedenmann from Costa Rica and Reshoevn8tr, one of the giants of products to clean shoes. On the other hand, and from the pandemic, there is an exponential growth of influencers in social networks and media specialized in the subject, such as Sneakerzine and Kordon. Additionally, there is a rage not only to create new silhouettes but also to work on existing ones, recreating the game of famous designers, such as The Shoesurgeon, who gives new life to a pair of used or new tennis shoes, with their 'surgeries' on models iconic. A sort of cobbler for millennials.

The future of tennis culture is beyond imagination in terms of technological advances and innovation. Today it is a reality to wear sneakers that, through an application, adjust the laces according to their preferences. This is precisely what the future of tennis is about, customization focused on the user's lifestyle, without neglecting the environment in which they live.ANDREA MORENO CHACÓN PHOTOGRAPHY DOMINGO @ANDREAMFOTO

Tennis

Medellin

Nike

Adidas

Fashion

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